tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90375333261581816972023-11-15T22:36:15.530-08:00Plycycle Mk2This is my blog following the build of the PLYCYCLE Mk2, a wooden framed bicycle.ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comBlogger40125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-35332089653209212232019-09-29T10:47:00.003-07:002019-09-29T10:50:44.855-07:00Plycycle Mk2 - Mostly finished. With shaping done, varnish followed and then as soon as it had cured the final build. The main components are from a donor bike, with alfine 8 speed hub gear, and shimano disc brakes. The forks I had found were quite straight and gave a very twitch ride so we used the forks from the donor bike as they had a good forward reach which mellowed the steering. The twitchy steering was also a result of me making the head tube angle too steep. It was more shallow but I had a brain fart one day and changed it for no good reason, or at least not that I can remember. You live and learn.<br />
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Only thing to do are to properly fix the rear brake cable currently held with cable ties.<br />
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-74076537762015867572019-09-29T10:36:00.002-07:002019-09-29T10:36:37.728-07:00The reinforcement. <br />
A close up video look at the new reinforcement pieces. <div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-45876217694867792172019-09-29T09:41:00.002-07:002019-09-29T09:41:28.974-07:00Resurrection So when I walked away from building this bike in 2016 I had cut two chunks out of the frame where it needed reinforcement but then hung the frame up in my garage and left it there. Cut to 2019and my son Cuan needed a new bike. He asked if we could finish the plycycle Mk2.<br />
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The first thing we did was to tidy up the rather bad cuts I had made in the frame and then we set about fitting the new cross ply pieces. The reinforcement plan was simply to resin in fresh plywood at 90 degrees to the existing frame grain. The weakness being that the frame had too much flex and rode like a jelly. </div>
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The top tube line could have straight ply plank fitted so we opted Fort Worth pieces of 14mm ply glued straight in with a filament resin. The down tube is curved so we went for three layers of 8mm ply bent and glued with the same resin.</div>
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Before we went any further down the build we put all of the components onto the frame to see if it was even worth continuing. </div>
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The good news was that our plan had worked. The frame was now stiff and rode properly. We took it all apart again and glued in some wedges to aesthetically improve the joints then set about cutting back the excess material and shaping the frame. </div>
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Once all the gluing was finished we shaped the frame using an angle grinder with a sanding disc and then followed that with an electric sander. In all it was an afternoon of shaping and sanding. </div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-26739810247710483992016-01-06T06:48:00.004-08:002016-01-06T06:48:59.631-08:00I made a mistake...I will get it off my chest right now.<br />
The Plycycle Mk2 has not been a great success. The Mk1 is great and I still ride it. But the Mk 2 has issues.<br />
The geometry is a mess, the head tube is at a far to steep an angle making the steering super twitchy. and I got greedy thinning down the frame and as a result it is super flexible. So flexible along the top tube that it is not nice to ride. Both of these issues are fixable.<br />
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The steering could be fixed with different forks and stem to the handle bars.<br />
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The frame can have a section cut away then replaced with a cross grain section of reinforcement.<br />
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However i am inclined just to park the project and move on.<br />
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I have thoroughly enjoyed the process and I have one great, working wooden framed bike. I am happy to leave it at that..... for the moment any way.<br />
<br />ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-23494850766922430042015-09-24T05:41:00.002-07:002015-09-24T05:41:42.479-07:00Bolting on more bits pt2.....<br />
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More bits went on, handle bars, brakes and gears.... in fact everything except the chain and the new front tyre.<br />
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I fitted the new super thing rear tyre and the fit is perfect, less chunky but I think that is OK.<br />
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So this is what it looks like so far.<br />
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The rear brake line was too short to take he route i had carefully prepared, so it is hanging loose for the moment. I either have to get longer hydraulic hose or reposition the lugs.</div>
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There is one big potential problem though. I think ther is too much flex in the frame. I haven't ridden it yet but it just doent feel right. In making it lighter and thinner I may have gone too far.</div>
ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-75824368975615240692015-09-21T06:21:00.000-07:002015-09-21T06:28:31.944-07:00Bolting bits on.....It has been a couple of weeks of good progress after a summer of no spare time.<br />
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I managed to start bolting on some of the mechanical bits and extra fittings.<br />
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But before I fitted the bits i decided to weigh the bare frame as I had neglected to do this with the Mk1. It came in at 3.8 kilos. Now I have no idea if this is good or bad, it is what it is.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Weighing in on the scales, 3.8kg.</span></div>
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So, the bits. Well the head set went in perfectly which allowed the forks to go on. (I had resprayed the forks to match the head tube.) I also fitted the bottom bracket which meant that i could fit the cranks. This was the first real time I could see if the clearance would be good between the crank arm and the rear stays. It was fine, generous in fact.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Vid of the bits fitted so far.</span></div>
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I also drilled and fitted the head tube safety bolts. I used a small drill bit to avoid the exit hole from splitting, but it still did. I expect the bit I used was getting blunt. There is no excuse for that.Still, the split was easy to fix with a spot of wood glue as it was only cosmetic. I then drilled out the holes with the larger bits, and fitted the bolts. I had intended to rig up my small pillar drill but went free hand in the end. I got the holes just right, phew. The bolts look good too.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Crank, headset, forks, bottom bracket, crank and seat fitted.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3PObqjKFFgIIc9Z4YQKp372JZcXhNL7jGebrWwQAkn3LrbCbRBmbZV7x5rRL_OPFHjUD5K7RQcwN3QLCpucwQrHH6VX6c9WxAshFUZCS3EVk_puI8oVgXTa01hUoTmQZTeu2K6KxSE0t-/s1600/PLYCYCLE-Mk2-cobble-nearly-there.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3PObqjKFFgIIc9Z4YQKp372JZcXhNL7jGebrWwQAkn3LrbCbRBmbZV7x5rRL_OPFHjUD5K7RQcwN3QLCpucwQrHH6VX6c9WxAshFUZCS3EVk_puI8oVgXTa01hUoTmQZTeu2K6KxSE0t-/s320/PLYCYCLE-Mk2-cobble-nearly-there.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Wheels on test.</span></div>
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The final thing was a wheels on test. I fitted the fresh tyres I had got in for the project, as I was recycling the wheels I thought the least I could do was to fit fresh boots on the bike. Anyway, it wasn't the good news i was hoping for. The back tyre rubbed on the frame. The gap was measured to fit a 1.4 tyre and in my excitement I had got 1.5 tyres. i thought it wouldn't make that much difference, but it does. So to be safe I have ordered a pair of 1.2 tyres. </div>
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<br />ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-41242876829402604772015-09-21T05:58:00.001-07:002015-09-21T05:58:11.450-07:00PAINT<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As I worked hard to get the wooden parts of the frame done, I lost sight of the metal work and in the course of sanding shaping and varnishing I bashed the metal bits and as a result there were a couple of big paint chips. This was a real shame as I had gone to great lengths to paint everything carefully before fitting to avoid painting once fitted. However I did end up having to.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX6OPhJEpDOaBHC3st0N3uwDGD7f59YuxhdqhSR8j_I4SqNwmfxXUTrA76iFw0fUQuvSJGistgqPFC5STA3A_CNaMZUmQFWvaTRvx9YpetcxSbTsg2YCKmOZhnpE-fkZxG348iFjy1L-oE/s1600/grinding-paint-off.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX6OPhJEpDOaBHC3st0N3uwDGD7f59YuxhdqhSR8j_I4SqNwmfxXUTrA76iFw0fUQuvSJGistgqPFC5STA3A_CNaMZUmQFWvaTRvx9YpetcxSbTsg2YCKmOZhnpE-fkZxG348iFjy1L-oE/s320/grinding-paint-off.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Grinding of the old paint.</span></div>
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As much of the old paint had to come off as possible. If you have ever tried spraying on top of existing paint it never goes well. I tested a bit and sure enough it went like crazy paving. i think it is because the chemicals in the paint below absorb the fresh paint and cause it to shrink. Anyhow, back to bare metal is always best.</div>
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Fresh primer, fresh paint, and fresh lacquer.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheiVwNOv1S94_qDG8h-2j0FMHLiNPhe7yq0ZCbaMg7BCB9Cm_YjLWY0dvcKB1-zuUaDHEy_Xyr_Mt2HLDa2sLuAlcceF9VVWBbIJ8Jr1HLJd3pSyF_OuwSdpf0JpNOZpE2xQPj6j_GN8sB/s1600/PLYCYCLE-Mk2-paint-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheiVwNOv1S94_qDG8h-2j0FMHLiNPhe7yq0ZCbaMg7BCB9Cm_YjLWY0dvcKB1-zuUaDHEy_Xyr_Mt2HLDa2sLuAlcceF9VVWBbIJ8Jr1HLJd3pSyF_OuwSdpf0JpNOZpE2xQPj6j_GN8sB/s400/PLYCYCLE-Mk2-paint-01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Plycycle with fresh paint and head tube sticker all lacquered in.</span></div>
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I carefully masked the frame with expensive masking tape around the details and covered the rest in old newspaper. over a couple of warm days I got all the spraying and inter coat sanding done. I was super pleased to get it all on one week.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj3fAv_HSgos64awdwVj-e0LdIm8nFIxR4SdnY8tLkQfcwByvh4nooJwzPsYWhFkyVa4JEdCZAdvUelX0DrFK1kh3TIwXdI1GnpbNc6TrGmJhrqE_oT-ODZClT_7hgtQbvv1MYp41Il_33/s1600/PLYCYCLE-Mk2-paint-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj3fAv_HSgos64awdwVj-e0LdIm8nFIxR4SdnY8tLkQfcwByvh4nooJwzPsYWhFkyVa4JEdCZAdvUelX0DrFK1kh3TIwXdI1GnpbNc6TrGmJhrqE_oT-ODZClT_7hgtQbvv1MYp41Il_33/s320/PLYCYCLE-Mk2-paint-02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Rear drop outs all masked and painted.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51cPtEAHoOqZyV3HecI0qhbKx1FDgAeillRMYhHJCRtO4gOin5HLgoIZpFv8kTGitdn9K6odG2Pvx45vWZge3LxTTrHfEDjpL43jgxT31XcLIMSMUdK05ew-TTpr-FUZZSVGVUZgNtkFH/s1600/PLYCYCLE-Mk2-paint-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51cPtEAHoOqZyV3HecI0qhbKx1FDgAeillRMYhHJCRtO4gOin5HLgoIZpFv8kTGitdn9K6odG2Pvx45vWZge3LxTTrHfEDjpL43jgxT31XcLIMSMUdK05ew-TTpr-FUZZSVGVUZgNtkFH/s200/PLYCYCLE-Mk2-paint-03.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdEqrTGwSex6lwqVb-Vi0yaN-riMUPjzpUKtQHT_H2zRmoqgpfiTVH0BAJq0WY1LDHkIh59TqpIuPujqLKKyZ-qPD2z11Fg062OSkDJ8R3YlKcWj3hWdinkJ8XeFY1G8xoVBWchQoYtqHy/s1600/varnish-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdEqrTGwSex6lwqVb-Vi0yaN-riMUPjzpUKtQHT_H2zRmoqgpfiTVH0BAJq0WY1LDHkIh59TqpIuPujqLKKyZ-qPD2z11Fg062OSkDJ8R3YlKcWj3hWdinkJ8XeFY1G8xoVBWchQoYtqHy/s200/varnish-1.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Bottom bracket masked, and unmasked one painted.</span></div>
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Taking off the masking was nerve racking but fun. It revealed that I had completely missed a few spots, but they will clean up no problem.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Vid of taking the masking off after painting.</span></div>
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i am pleased with the way the painting worked out, it was worth doing.ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-38781268020994763572015-07-28T14:44:00.002-07:002015-09-21T05:38:12.666-07:00Varnish issues.First, it has been a while, more real life has just got in the way....<br />
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Back in April I started lacquering the frame. The primer coat went on well as did the first coat. Then the problems started. When cured there were giant runs in the finish. I cut them off (yes they were that bad) and had another go. Again it looked good and smooth as it went on but when I came back the finish was terrible. I ended up pretty much sanding the whole frame back and starting again.<br />
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The second time it was July and hot. The varnish went on much more thinly out of the tin and cured faster. It was also well within the recommended temperature all night too. The finish was great, as it was on the Plycycle Mk1, and as I had expected it to be in the first place.<br />
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What I learnt was this. Do not rush it. The temp needed to be over 10 deg C. It was when I applied it but in the spring it went down much colder at night. This was not good. If I had actually bothered to think it through properly I would have worked it out and not made a LOT more work for myself.<br />
Applying the lacquer at 22 deg C and an ambient temp of around 15 deg C at night meant that it was all good.<br />
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I should point out that my garage where I am doing the work does not have heating and I didn't want to leave an electric heater on over night in there unattended.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpdPfxDSkH9cc7P1kNc9XeswTT8SdoYSR_ZbiuOcWNR0tIaVPHHJKQguesAKS4uV_wLzDcaw-PlqJf_Plx7Hzoxa3ITajQ986UNdblLVPFyQBq5Y7pRacbZuCKj3vM0qxG6lAgFpkv_0ct/s1600/varnish-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpdPfxDSkH9cc7P1kNc9XeswTT8SdoYSR_ZbiuOcWNR0tIaVPHHJKQguesAKS4uV_wLzDcaw-PlqJf_Plx7Hzoxa3ITajQ986UNdblLVPFyQBq5Y7pRacbZuCKj3vM0qxG6lAgFpkv_0ct/s320/varnish-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The varnish is OK now....</span></div>
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Anyway, the good news is that the frame is now sealed and looks great.<br />
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Next job is to fix the dings in the paint work on the metal parts.ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-86650637805879966322015-05-08T05:18:00.001-07:002015-05-08T05:18:41.633-07:00Wheels on.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It occurred to me this morning that I had not actually put the wheels on the frame for a very long time. So I did. See the pic below.</div>
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I have to be honest and say that I was disappointed, mainly with the forks and the impact they have. The front wheel has a super fat tyre fitted at the moment which it will not in the final assembly so ignore that. The main problem is the rake and size of the forks where it meats the head tube. Being aluminium the crown is very fat and really doesnt sit well by the steel head tube. I had thought that the chunky nature of the aluminium forks world work well, and they do to a certain extent but over all they just look a bit ridged compared to the rest of the frame. Also they are too long as they were intended for a 700c wheel, With the forks being too long it pushes the bike quite high, it was already a short high design, so this just pushes it a bit too far for my liking. There is a simple solution and that is to find a new set of forks. I think I will go for steel this time. I will look for a 26 inch fork that will fit the wheels properly and not push the geometry up. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix0qga0GDcXx5u1FXdbBNQL3i0Py0YMOj8_-p8DnBMW-UPEcQbyTCJTT6kEobICLXWO-l3rzv9qzMBEwOwesQQLX__S46_pgjsVjbGfkLcoW7W0Q0tzgVcdIaJvrViFoQJBQ8JDXtsSJet/s1600/PlycycleMk2+assembly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix0qga0GDcXx5u1FXdbBNQL3i0Py0YMOj8_-p8DnBMW-UPEcQbyTCJTT6kEobICLXWO-l3rzv9qzMBEwOwesQQLX__S46_pgjsVjbGfkLcoW7W0Q0tzgVcdIaJvrViFoQJBQ8JDXtsSJet/s320/PlycycleMk2+assembly.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">ThePlycycle Mk2 with wheels on.</span></div>
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As a result of fitting the back wheel found I had forgotten to carve out the frame where the rear wheel fits behind the bottom bracket. Or rather doesn't fit. I have to deflate the tyre to fit the wheel at the mo. it was on my list of things to do I just forgot. Luckily it is an easy fix, one i will ahve to do before i do the final varnish coats.</div>
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There has also been a tiny bit of warping in the frame, and i wonder if it has been because i didnt get it varnished before the winter. it has caused the rear wheel to not align as perfectly as It did when I set the drop outs. It is not a disaster, just disappointing.</div>
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On the plus side the first thinned coat of varnish looks good and holds promise for the next full coat.</div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-53752943039013442032015-04-27T05:58:00.000-07:002015-04-27T05:58:10.531-07:00Varnish-first coat.It seemed like a long way off for ages and now it is here it is a very exciting time in the project. Like many other stages this is a point of no return.<br />
First coat of varnish. This first coat is thinned down 20% with thinners as a wetting/preparation coat. It may lift the wood grain in places, so it will need a good chack then light sanding before the final four coats go on.<br />
I have chosen the same varnish as last time. It is a yacht deck varnish by <a href="http://www.hempelyacht.com/en-GB/products/hempels-classic-varnish-01150" target="_blank">Hemple</a>. I chose it for its UV stability combined with strength and flexibility.<br />
Having used it on the Plycycle Mk1 I am very happy with it. I like the high lacquer slightly orange finish it gives. It is not every bodies cup of tea, but I love it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt2cZggwBdIctrBJibzcuTfn-sp2tN1A7IBMZ8n13urL9Y4cy6E7Xh6Nfj0ZfRhEblpXQ-nMFsLAViKmD2hu0QRCnqqxVfyIMnkW37ZVQzceCRqAI_JAmCiWT6Rkpky5D-ZMSUdMld9Zcg/s1600/varnish-first-coat-compair-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt2cZggwBdIctrBJibzcuTfn-sp2tN1A7IBMZ8n13urL9Y4cy6E7Xh6Nfj0ZfRhEblpXQ-nMFsLAViKmD2hu0QRCnqqxVfyIMnkW37ZVQzceCRqAI_JAmCiWT6Rkpky5D-ZMSUdMld9Zcg/s1600/varnish-first-coat-compair-1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">First varnish coat going on.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7MfOnQjAqPFSKhhwXGQ5MQaZ3t2eitwdQBOAua1l8qV4UcJoLo487dIP4jkP6lMGtr6AO2sRexCEqVYSBHRQ6NLQ2CV92IIpNrP5ZMyfxZIORiHAV6oOFyOJoT_sC5FTWlQB8wQAnnxW/s1600/varnish-first-coat-compair-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl7MfOnQjAqPFSKhhwXGQ5MQaZ3t2eitwdQBOAua1l8qV4UcJoLo487dIP4jkP6lMGtr6AO2sRexCEqVYSBHRQ6NLQ2CV92IIpNrP5ZMyfxZIORiHAV6oOFyOJoT_sC5FTWlQB8wQAnnxW/s1600/varnish-first-coat-compair-2.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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You can see from the pictures how much the varnish brings out the shape and contours of the ply. This really changes the way the frame looks, for the better. It clearly looks wooden once the varnish is on.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Varnish first coat.</span></div>
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I just have to be patient now and varnish the frame carefully with out rushing, on days when the weather will be warm enough for it to cure properly.</div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-67430721580241418572015-04-27T05:41:00.000-07:002015-04-27T05:41:00.937-07:00Last bits done.The tinkering and noodeling is over. I have finally got the frame to a place where I am happy. Today I spent some time giving the frame a final sand down. The frame has a nice shape to it now and if I carry on sanding any more there wont be any frame left. I have to draw a line under this somewhere and I am happy for it to be now.<br />
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I had been round in circles looking for a solution for the seat post fixing. I really didn't want to resort to inserting a metal tube into the frame. Possibly something i will regret if the seat post wears the hole wide with time. But if it does I can always sleeve it at a later date. Anyway, after a lot of hunting I found this seat bracket that has a lamp fitting machined from the same block as the clamp. If the clamp clamps the seat post directly which it does then all that remains is for the rotation of the seat in the hole to eliminated. The clamp will do exactly that once I have screwed it into the frame. Well that's the plan anyway.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUChgLrrYzZzr7HMryatDBic3h3YZKowlvo1KnW5SvuChBvX3YEIeyUrB6IbeaF2qiy_Q4Z6Tj4QW1q8FaEiQisskHLfrqxJoNqRJdcAlOia8JxXUN8aUvxcy4jxA_hiGnPU1ac9wmdhEP/s1600/final+shaping-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUChgLrrYzZzr7HMryatDBic3h3YZKowlvo1KnW5SvuChBvX3YEIeyUrB6IbeaF2qiy_Q4Z6Tj4QW1q8FaEiQisskHLfrqxJoNqRJdcAlOia8JxXUN8aUvxcy4jxA_hiGnPU1ac9wmdhEP/s1600/final+shaping-01.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCgcFpexu2oeFvYg9YF7-FBpvk7DwX4EH_OW4LcMR4O2gVSOpdnGaxbnMnsSDsYM4YIO3QH3-T37J9dpFnzXVXLfQT4chRqbD88j5SEs0ICJhMYvcb1JTc-2ln1SjagXXZJtU1Fs45ZGTj/s1600/final+shaping-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCgcFpexu2oeFvYg9YF7-FBpvk7DwX4EH_OW4LcMR4O2gVSOpdnGaxbnMnsSDsYM4YIO3QH3-T37J9dpFnzXVXLfQT4chRqbD88j5SEs0ICJhMYvcb1JTc-2ln1SjagXXZJtU1Fs45ZGTj/s1600/final+shaping-02.jpg" height="312" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Seat post fixing solution.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTq_qucBCde3j5537TFpzD8yvEv0DjhA3YK-yvAaq_Wr5nFuWnl06PoJTrmbCVGSeGsWo5gA-pnxdUrxp5K2OmOOOkBVZJQjgrxbUPDUKky8IHz7HmK2s9UTnpR_EFQVInSu6BceEyqJre/s1600/final+shaping-04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTq_qucBCde3j5537TFpzD8yvEv0DjhA3YK-yvAaq_Wr5nFuWnl06PoJTrmbCVGSeGsWo5gA-pnxdUrxp5K2OmOOOkBVZJQjgrxbUPDUKky8IHz7HmK2s9UTnpR_EFQVInSu6BceEyqJre/s1600/final+shaping-04.jpg" height="320" width="173" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Rear stays.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhentDOdlfhFNsrXDuMdu4o28428-PAlbGIaOVSYAhmAtqCVlNlVJxs-3EpJ9bR22Ev2RpqylEwsWrrSnQ94KasH2Tz8rD7dOQSbnTEY96_tmMsujl-IoGlcGLf5lz6jj4W6nwaEWztBYlC/s1600/final+shaping-05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhentDOdlfhFNsrXDuMdu4o28428-PAlbGIaOVSYAhmAtqCVlNlVJxs-3EpJ9bR22Ev2RpqylEwsWrrSnQ94KasH2Tz8rD7dOQSbnTEY96_tmMsujl-IoGlcGLf5lz6jj4W6nwaEWztBYlC/s1600/final+shaping-05.jpg" height="262" width="320" /></a></div>
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Its ready for varnish.....</div>
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<br /><iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/f2e-v9GaC3c/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/f2e-v9GaC3c?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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Final sanding video.</div>
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Next stop, varnishing.</div>
<br />ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-78666296821755305532015-01-05T05:39:00.003-08:002015-01-05T05:39:55.951-08:00Refining the frame.This is a fun bit but also a slow part of the build. Getting the shape to be the final shape. The main aim is to get rid of the excess epoxy, any staining that has occurred and to smooth out the lines and curves. Up until now the shapes have been very crude approximations of the final shape. Now I am loosing all the extra bits, lumps bumps and corners. It takes ages and I have to be patient.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguhC_IgQqQQVUn7fJO2dO-KibD8ZCNt1sgw-fLyBrQvQfnPnuiiIyBYASs3S_fEwKTOPvAb-aSfm9OThEZ-c4Iu4NBLM-ZLIREJDew8ghrTmhCvZ95xXoNmL2lU9ox0iVFXM7We_hyphenhyphenmup1/s1600/Plycycle-frame-refining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguhC_IgQqQQVUn7fJO2dO-KibD8ZCNt1sgw-fLyBrQvQfnPnuiiIyBYASs3S_fEwKTOPvAb-aSfm9OThEZ-c4Iu4NBLM-ZLIREJDew8ghrTmhCvZ95xXoNmL2lU9ox0iVFXM7We_hyphenhyphenmup1/s1600/Plycycle-frame-refining.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Compare this with last time.....</span></div>
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<br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/gQr6KPKJMYk?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">A closer look with video.</span></div>
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There is still a way to go before it is ready for varnishing, but I am happy with the progress.<br />
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I still don't know how I am going to fix the seat post in. Latest thought is to chop off the riser and epoxy it in like last time, but that seems a bit defeatist, so I will try and figure a simple way to make it adjustable.ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-82969960643054097742014-12-02T04:54:00.000-08:002014-12-04T03:19:47.227-08:00It is a frame!The frame is now structurally complete. I have finally bonded the rear stays into place. As winter has taken its grip I had to wait until there was a warmer day, over ten degrees in order for the epoxy to work properly. But in the end the day cooled off much faster than I had hoped and I ended up dashing into the house and digging out an electric heater from the loft in order to keep the garage warm. I didnt fancy keeping the heater on all night so after a couple of hours the epoxy had gone off enough for me to move the frame (carefully) into the house. By the morning it was cured.<br />
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Before i mixed up the epoxy, I did a final dry assembly to check wheel alignment and that everything still fitted, and made some last minute trims and tweaks. One of the main things I did was to drill lots of very shallow holes and rough up the contacts surfaces on the parts to be bonded. I also had to abraid the insides of the metal tubing on the drop outs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeoDZV9nbqWQ4o_nyKLTfi6BnrROBp3RzerOCvlF0kvOBPauDPNphi5XxDKVu6t6GGe70hud5GHlbzdblMuFHkPYfMtqph20hvFaU6Z-fMIwdFSaBoq5NuRvZT8zGlVPMETB5RnKfYk-a6/s1600/REar-stay-pre-glue-test.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeoDZV9nbqWQ4o_nyKLTfi6BnrROBp3RzerOCvlF0kvOBPauDPNphi5XxDKVu6t6GGe70hud5GHlbzdblMuFHkPYfMtqph20hvFaU6Z-fMIwdFSaBoq5NuRvZT8zGlVPMETB5RnKfYk-a6/s1600/REar-stay-pre-glue-test.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Final dry run of rear stay positions.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2l6UuM2outTbxIZigQ-HzKw2FWJ6QMiXPqL9js0cn-Zd-y2Qq3-Gt5EXGvMixQ6HJJaqk60ieJt93JdnoKZPqcz6cOrvfi3H5Biyw_fdgC5yNsPobWIZ8KBIvShHsj5K3EgmGa6jUAy_R/s1600/rear-stays-glued-in-04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2l6UuM2outTbxIZigQ-HzKw2FWJ6QMiXPqL9js0cn-Zd-y2Qq3-Gt5EXGvMixQ6HJJaqk60ieJt93JdnoKZPqcz6cOrvfi3H5Biyw_fdgC5yNsPobWIZ8KBIvShHsj5K3EgmGa6jUAy_R/s1600/rear-stays-glued-in-04.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The frame in one piece at last.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCJuJpd1tXK3886fnf5-uBLtEg_WDD0mfvWS33dG7axvp1ZWFhlFuV7mfX2FKhy7TZ-IJeEZRCX1S3wSZaXm7S3aNR-wt2HHW6zhxWS2L6YpisxyZs4sq7IhAFxLsDfDkonnDU-KsDldK/s1600/rear-stays-glued-in-07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJCJuJpd1tXK3886fnf5-uBLtEg_WDD0mfvWS33dG7axvp1ZWFhlFuV7mfX2FKhy7TZ-IJeEZRCX1S3wSZaXm7S3aNR-wt2HHW6zhxWS2L6YpisxyZs4sq7IhAFxLsDfDkonnDU-KsDldK/s1600/rear-stays-glued-in-07.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk5LNxwe4HlIELHPn4ETNgvj3_8F18tXoZ7jwGc6B-O2j2ZSddGGF2S66yGfH8ObUAO5vvDExqHWnh74MIL-uKu06LvS_OVTDicP7q_YhrD4753Mbu-L62XNasLHGmqngD6Tz7HtNFmHKo/s1600/rear-stays-glued-in-08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk5LNxwe4HlIELHPn4ETNgvj3_8F18tXoZ7jwGc6B-O2j2ZSddGGF2S66yGfH8ObUAO5vvDExqHWnh74MIL-uKu06LvS_OVTDicP7q_YhrD4753Mbu-L62XNasLHGmqngD6Tz7HtNFmHKo/s1600/rear-stays-glued-in-08.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></div>
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<object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/2REdP5Rky_Y/0.jpg" height="266" width="320"><param name="movie" value="https://www.youtube.com/v/2REdP5Rky_Y?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/v/2REdP5Rky_Y?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Video of the frame after the bonding.</span></div>
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This is a big step forward. There is still a lot of sanding and now that i see it all together there are elements of the frame shape that I will refine. The main observation is that I want to see more of the ply contours and that can only be achieved by working more curves into the shape. There are plenty of places to do this and I will just do it as I go, I feel like it needs to be an organic process. i just need to be careful as there is absolutely no undo option.</div>
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Right now, this frame is structurally ready to ride, from here on in it is all aesthetics. I feel like I should be getting the varnish ready.</div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-30784747378300249932014-11-17T05:43:00.000-08:002014-11-17T05:43:28.579-08:00Painting the metal drop outs.My pal Lew Gardener kindly brazed up the rear drop outs for me again having also done the brazing on the bottom brackets and head tube fixings. It is a tricky job as there is a big difference in thickness of the drop out and the tubes. Also the alignment of the tubing had to be good to my wooden frame and not necessarily square and as there was no jig to hold it all in place we resorted to the method we devised on the <a href="http://www.plycycle.co.uk/" target="_blank">plycycle mk1</a>. This involved me offering up the rear stays and fitting the wheel with it all essentially loose. Then when I was happy with the alignment I tacked the metal parts together with tiny dabs of a super strong epoxy. This held the pieces in place until Lew could tack weld the components then burn off the epoxy. Not ideal but it worked. We bolted the drop outs onto an old axle and surprisingly they lined up perfectly together, my frame turned out remarkably true.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4InFUx3rX8-xATn9aZMlLliCCEkFsyFcRcxi8zmTdB0AlH5Na48oeH93LHjlv746R0r-Ubo8q1JUanb9GMOZI2QTQdN6ml_10_HOLlJwcd2eHLQ6RNuWQ_TPumCwyEwxewcqWnTcCjCmU/s1600/dropouts-aligned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4InFUx3rX8-xATn9aZMlLliCCEkFsyFcRcxi8zmTdB0AlH5Na48oeH93LHjlv746R0r-Ubo8q1JUanb9GMOZI2QTQdN6ml_10_HOLlJwcd2eHLQ6RNuWQ_TPumCwyEwxewcqWnTcCjCmU/s1600/dropouts-aligned.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Drop outs tacked and ready to braze.</span></div>
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS8XMs5S4sghGmErvVFz3-s_oPy2YQ2zgxEUXf6ZSzGXWUMxeRSUP_ni4ato8eqHW9cs_7Znzm7JfAw6Zx_MbD3S_ZjXdjVnN5pwoh816x_4nFagvFFwVCnOcdtMwLOlhdGc2dagHc9moj/s1600/rear-dropouts-brazed-6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS8XMs5S4sghGmErvVFz3-s_oPy2YQ2zgxEUXf6ZSzGXWUMxeRSUP_ni4ato8eqHW9cs_7Znzm7JfAw6Zx_MbD3S_ZjXdjVnN5pwoh816x_4nFagvFFwVCnOcdtMwLOlhdGc2dagHc9moj/s1600/rear-dropouts-brazed-6.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Drop outs all brazed up.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTZ4AjAYAzJxFhc8tFw7LjceBQgF4zCCFSjExgYEAOE_2c2z8vxsGv4YJ4oFvv2UcG_BX7fZsf41B18JiaXpv5PQmLrvKUAMx8xJ7jtjJxQ7_xN-a86yXAyENWK3q3_Pg8Dfwp7R_HlBoU/s1600/dropouts-primed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTZ4AjAYAzJxFhc8tFw7LjceBQgF4zCCFSjExgYEAOE_2c2z8vxsGv4YJ4oFvv2UcG_BX7fZsf41B18JiaXpv5PQmLrvKUAMx8xJ7jtjJxQ7_xN-a86yXAyENWK3q3_Pg8Dfwp7R_HlBoU/s1600/dropouts-primed.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Drop outs primed.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeS_6O0MvNZ3UEIhxeP_2F6SRA6E7jjGtjTWU2h9rSvloNDNPUHQz5NfSsjfNCpmHgkfqmjx6Rb-gZGPIKtZSlndRfGy_rLEKdEcof7d_QKBoP-JCbvCLgXEiFPAjsnep1RyZQTGXb-15v/s1600/dropout-painted-11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeS_6O0MvNZ3UEIhxeP_2F6SRA6E7jjGtjTWU2h9rSvloNDNPUHQz5NfSsjfNCpmHgkfqmjx6Rb-gZGPIKtZSlndRfGy_rLEKdEcof7d_QKBoP-JCbvCLgXEiFPAjsnep1RyZQTGXb-15v/s1600/dropout-painted-11.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Drop outs all sprayed and lacquered.</span></div>
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So the next stage is a big one. Fix the back end of the frame together. The end is in sight, after the final structural bonding there is final shaping and sanding, fitting the cable guides and finish the seat post fixing then I can varnish and fit components........ Ooooooh so close.<br />
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<br />ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-2448135177193988032014-11-05T10:07:00.002-08:002014-11-05T10:11:00.431-08:00Drilling and carving.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In order for the cable fixings to attach and bed into the frame properly I decided to carve out little trenches for them to sit in. I think it will look much nicer with them sitting flush with the wood and I also think that the strength of the bond will be much better. </div>
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I tried hand carving with a chisels on a test piece of ply. It was fine when on the flat surface but carvin end on was a bit of a mess. I think my small chisel needs sharpening.... again. Anyway I found that my router has a blade that is a perfect fit and on the placements along the frame where there it is flat or convex I can rout out a good shape. The ones on the complex curves will have to be hand carved, once I have sharpened the chisel.</div>
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Cable holder trench and test placement.</div>
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The other thing I have tackled recently is the seat post hole. On the Mk1 I really made a hash of the seat post, it was all on the wonk. Essentially because I rushed it. So this time I carefully set up my workbench and braced and clamped the frame making sure it was plum square with my small pillar drill rig. After lots of fiddling and checking I was ready.</div>
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I used a orger bit in a standard drill to get started. The bit worked a treat and once I got to the limit of the small pillar drill action I did the rest carefully by hand. I orger bit works best at a sower speed and with the straight hole established it didnt deviate as it is such a strong drill bit.</div>
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It got quite hot and I had to take it slowly, constantly clearing the chaff and letting the bit cool down. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTKzkhRyIw-fMUcfY3KyHxXczspIsMmThn56AIm2YtbbYXCUMYYhvzgswOAGdLS3okuNEkQGnF2K7llOwi2uzoySkp_Gtv0rGzAeaFLGIk8D7W8GLSM_E2kKezU2K3MndcGITwAChySBLF/s1600/seatpost-drilling.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTKzkhRyIw-fMUcfY3KyHxXczspIsMmThn56AIm2YtbbYXCUMYYhvzgswOAGdLS3okuNEkQGnF2K7llOwi2uzoySkp_Gtv0rGzAeaFLGIk8D7W8GLSM_E2kKezU2K3MndcGITwAChySBLF/s1600/seatpost-drilling.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Drilling the seat post hole.</span></div>
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I would still like to have an adjustable seat but I am trying to figure out the best way to fasten it. At least I know it is straight this time and I can permanently fix it in if need be.</div>
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<br />ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-72063858208388059292014-09-29T08:58:00.000-07:002014-09-29T08:59:07.184-07:00Fiddly bits.Along side building the main frame I have been gathering together all the components and additional bits that will need to come together to complete the bike. Wheels, gears and brakes will come from a donor bike. Seat, seat post, crank, bottom bracket head set and handlebars have been gathered together over the summer. In an ideal world I would love to fit it out with new parts but I am doing this on a budget of as little as possible. All these bits and bobs will come together once the frame is finished.<br />
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There are however some bits that are vital that need a little more thought. The cable routing and securing. In metal frame building they are called 'braze on's', the tiny parts that route the cables and the like. I cant braze these parts onto my frame so I needed another solution. I had thought about routing the cables through the frame, but decided not to for simplicites sake. So I needed to use a cable clip or bracket that would fix to the wooden frame.<br />
I found a great selection of parts at <a href="http://www.framebuilding.com/Braze%20ons.htm" target="_blank">Ceeway</a> frame building supplies. I found two options so ordered both to test (and to fulfill their minimum order requirements) out mu options.<br />
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Here are the two options.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSbK68G-GjckjV-H2XZzM72_2vRM63_DehxPLHFPpoirPeKhsTZPeVIgyelcnJfEi-YArX3tlP38SV8-T4LNqxsv8bEZRLdawS8dna6wyiYBcnrd43JQGCm0kmRIE5NNljkqsxicVpE-K_/s1600/cable-fixings-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSbK68G-GjckjV-H2XZzM72_2vRM63_DehxPLHFPpoirPeKhsTZPeVIgyelcnJfEi-YArX3tlP38SV8-T4LNqxsv8bEZRLdawS8dna6wyiYBcnrd43JQGCm0kmRIE5NNljkqsxicVpE-K_/s1600/cable-fixings-2.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The two cable fixing options.</span></div>
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I planned to silver solder on little stumps of metal bar that I would then epoxy into a pre drilled shallow hole in the frame. However after a couple of attempts I realized that it could potentially work but that I was over engineering the problem.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPXVspnCkOVELg0D-sciWVb03RRooAKaC1VOGrCD5wdYeN5CXFHw8MFNlEfOo7867CGZqfSI8nvp56QspTQDCb-uiTJtoZAfYdCbmuRFqVnbRRF5007Ai_BdbkqULmYGMfby2jqtS-irpK/s1600/cable-fixings-fail-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPXVspnCkOVELg0D-sciWVb03RRooAKaC1VOGrCD5wdYeN5CXFHw8MFNlEfOo7867CGZqfSI8nvp56QspTQDCb-uiTJtoZAfYdCbmuRFqVnbRRF5007Ai_BdbkqULmYGMfby2jqtS-irpK/s1600/cable-fixings-fail-2.jpg" height="251" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Failed silver soldering attempts.</span></div>
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Thinking it through I saw that I could use the hook type fixing by simply routing out a very shallow pit to match the shape of the base plate and simply epoxy the clip into the frame. This way the bracket would sit flush with the frame contour and was also thin enough to be slightly bent into and concave or convex profiles.</div>
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So I set about spraying them up. I lightly roughed up the surface with wet and dry paper, then super glued little a little leg onto each clip then pushed that into some plasticine for spraying. The little leg will snap off after spraying only leaving a tiny unpainted section that will be covered with epoxy once bonded.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9AkU1N3eGdCnS2PZc0FRsTKMJF0S6MO4b-3aecLCrD_7HWHYmwC6ZBoe_Zd3aPwZqkneYcIYSNrYf_APFWnpIbB0pWZ5Ibo2v_Y-reGXHSo-VjU6C2qzP7Sh2fcddt49-ssQrorSURRs3/s1600/cable-fixings-primer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9AkU1N3eGdCnS2PZc0FRsTKMJF0S6MO4b-3aecLCrD_7HWHYmwC6ZBoe_Zd3aPwZqkneYcIYSNrYf_APFWnpIbB0pWZ5Ibo2v_Y-reGXHSo-VjU6C2qzP7Sh2fcddt49-ssQrorSURRs3/s1600/cable-fixings-primer.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Clips with primer coat.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeMwmNwOJuDuejn0rIv5yvI4jzLvd0s2oS9MP2VlbLsCyt5edFL7z13mRmJPCtsNRChrppwLxUE8wLys0bgyXmQDD-Q-74Av1WMhk10LQbv6KvRN-crSN9EqkanrzJPJtW7t_k2OWzm3uI/s1600/cable-fixings-painted-55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeMwmNwOJuDuejn0rIv5yvI4jzLvd0s2oS9MP2VlbLsCyt5edFL7z13mRmJPCtsNRChrppwLxUE8wLys0bgyXmQDD-Q-74Av1WMhk10LQbv6KvRN-crSN9EqkanrzJPJtW7t_k2OWzm3uI/s1600/cable-fixings-painted-55.jpg" height="320" width="244" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Clips painted and lacquered.</span></div>
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Next step is to decide on the positions they will take on the main frame then rout / chisel out their pits.</div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-50458483729148736002014-09-18T04:58:00.002-07:002014-09-18T04:59:39.424-07:00Bonding the main frame.Like many of the steps in this project this bit was one was a one way journey, no going back. I had to join the two main halves of the frame together and bond the head tube and bottom bracket into place all in one go. There was no other way to do it.<br />
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So after an hour or so of checking and prepping all the contact surfaces, I started to mix the epoxy. There is something wonderfully focusing about mixing up the resin, the chemical reaction starts immediately and the clock is ticking. Despite having gone through the procedure a few times now, there is still a huge element of nerves and excitement.<br />
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So after wetting up the two sides of the frame and the two metal components with straight <a href="http://www.westsystem.com/ss/" target="_blank">West System</a> epoxy I added microfibers to the remaining mix and spread an even layer over one side, filling any dents or cavities along the way. It was then a case of marrying up the two halves using the registration bolts and gently clamping the whole lot making sure that even pressure was applied as far a possible and not too tight.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVPfka8lbcw5XsovXRZFQV_w3r0bcpxycOQuCVRffTZq4GOKW-1O8QTV2muHl4YlkdYA_kHZsG6kNb7ns8Y7piFkSyCoSRE63Ix_PknPLjKCR4n_oEXa6b5ZXGvgJ5aKhvZOUpfLMH0sza/s1600/Frame-epoxy-clamps-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVPfka8lbcw5XsovXRZFQV_w3r0bcpxycOQuCVRffTZq4GOKW-1O8QTV2muHl4YlkdYA_kHZsG6kNb7ns8Y7piFkSyCoSRE63Ix_PknPLjKCR4n_oEXa6b5ZXGvgJ5aKhvZOUpfLMH0sza/s1600/Frame-epoxy-clamps-02.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">All clamped up.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdC6egHFVlp0B5wZzfpxDNIIU77jdHabhLGInZHrS7XQa9Fj8G2T8zsm04gP-TeqnOan5UEKDWEtxDhB0J92xjBZKAvbcVS59vwmWJdhBiRUpp4OlDuryh9t4sUkqIfE5Gqxy1RmvKllCz/s1600/Frame-epoxy-clamps-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdC6egHFVlp0B5wZzfpxDNIIU77jdHabhLGInZHrS7XQa9Fj8G2T8zsm04gP-TeqnOan5UEKDWEtxDhB0J92xjBZKAvbcVS59vwmWJdhBiRUpp4OlDuryh9t4sUkqIfE5Gqxy1RmvKllCz/s1600/Frame-epoxy-clamps-03.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIP2bxGpIV7JL1_l7gx0RyVPr_dC9dHSu7C1MLIUUXwa6Ji1eTxVia5fMbV0KM3kk7te37KlVYBdoIwq6b2jKnsHhzHe3VQViebFQKU0fsgcOSrqVFIvfR39aJ3r8Hw4uWs9XKNz0TQtsg/s1600/Frame-epoxy-clamps-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIP2bxGpIV7JL1_l7gx0RyVPr_dC9dHSu7C1MLIUUXwa6Ji1eTxVia5fMbV0KM3kk7te37KlVYBdoIwq6b2jKnsHhzHe3VQViebFQKU0fsgcOSrqVFIvfR39aJ3r8Hw4uWs9XKNz0TQtsg/s1600/Frame-epoxy-clamps-11.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Head tube and bottom bracket sticking out of the frame sandwich</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCf9IZTw0avco7VY1Ua4YXyF57KUMB7hYnfFQAv96PBo1rGdi5WZNMS-XncNmLJlhSmUCDBHpYeMcRsKhgnS2BhAwgSkTvHbL37fYT3qPeOYycLk5V4upmjZ9XX3vhkM3W8bFDgRymODzu/s1600/Frame-epoxy-clamps-12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCf9IZTw0avco7VY1Ua4YXyF57KUMB7hYnfFQAv96PBo1rGdi5WZNMS-XncNmLJlhSmUCDBHpYeMcRsKhgnS2BhAwgSkTvHbL37fYT3qPeOYycLk5V4upmjZ9XX3vhkM3W8bFDgRymODzu/s1600/Frame-epoxy-clamps-12.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">All clamped up - video.</span></div>
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Having got it all clamped together I just had to wait. Twenty four hours later i took the clamps off, and it had all worked brilliantly. </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">First look at frame with the clamps off -Video.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZwb5wZo9p0JobvMAVh4LCN_HGJwFIuVwYaX0vfhIJ2uCewwc81YiN0pC-LMMnKTroXfH9K4Unej_bbtLqySlcmDmRJHt8QJP-kUmEmef6wO2KhPpkePkfK11kKf8vMiGB2r6VYtP2Ww_I/s1600/Frame-laminated-clamps-off-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZwb5wZo9p0JobvMAVh4LCN_HGJwFIuVwYaX0vfhIJ2uCewwc81YiN0pC-LMMnKTroXfH9K4Unej_bbtLqySlcmDmRJHt8QJP-kUmEmef6wO2KhPpkePkfK11kKf8vMiGB2r6VYtP2Ww_I/s1600/Frame-laminated-clamps-off-03.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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The good news is that it worked! I now have the main frame in one piece. I will have to be very careful about not knocking the head tube and bottom bracket as I cant take them out for repainting. The next step is to remove all the excess resin and get down to the final shaping of the main frame. I still have to epoxy in the rear stays and the reinforcing plat in the down tube which will all need cleaning up and refining once set.</div>
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I am considering making additional supports around the bottom bracket, i will mock some up and see what I think.</div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-6808902651762924432014-09-01T03:47:00.000-07:002014-09-01T03:47:18.707-07:00Head tube fitting.Getting the metal work to interface with the main plywood frame is critical and the latest step has been to get the head tube to fit. I had left the frame extra long at the front to allow me to change the fork angle. I offered up the forks with the wheel fitted and drew on the angle line I liked then simply cut the line with a chop saw. This gave me a good clean and true ninety degree cut.<br />
Getting the correct curve inside the frame is tricky and I made a bit of a mess of it on the first <a href="http://www.plycycle.co.uk/" target="_blank">Plycycle</a> project where I tried to drill out the hole then cut it in half. This time I took a more measured and staged approach. First I used a router to cut away the inside to a 'V' shape, then used a small one inch drum sander on my drill to get the curve. A rasp ironed out any lumps and bumps. It will need a bit of refining which I will do using a spare bit of head tube with sand paper wrapped around it which should create a tight fit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5cS-4a7RyX1YF222wUYzeChCusNPV9KXqd-YOMBA0jQG7JOkAV79eYyTd0wL-w8wvKp3YeTdd9usRoppJPi9iKTy1pe51lTUjeEkJHnJyJjC0L5J_ppDyRkVeHDG3i802gn1Kn0eUMdH9/s1600/Headtube-fitting09.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5cS-4a7RyX1YF222wUYzeChCusNPV9KXqd-YOMBA0jQG7JOkAV79eYyTd0wL-w8wvKp3YeTdd9usRoppJPi9iKTy1pe51lTUjeEkJHnJyJjC0L5J_ppDyRkVeHDG3i802gn1Kn0eUMdH9/s1600/Headtube-fitting09.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Head tube first fit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Head tube fit video.</span></div>
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However as I was working on the head tube I dropped it and put several large dents in the paint work which means I will have to rub it down and start again. It is not a big problem, more of a nuisance.</div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-82651487348468878562014-08-19T04:54:00.002-07:002014-08-19T04:55:12.892-07:00Spray paint.I took the opportunity to use the spray booth in the model shop at work to spray the head tube and bottom bracket. It has been a while since I had to do any proper spray painting and I didnt want to have to rub it down and start again because of drips. The lots of light layers on a solid primer is always the best way forward. The paint went on well. I then rubbed it down to prepare it for the lacquer. The lacquer needed a slightly heavier hand in order to create the smooth caot. My first tentative pass left a dinlpled finish. One of the model makers gave me some advice and I took it. More spray. Luckily it was still wet at this point and it took well. It is a fine line between having enough lacquer to get the smooth coat and too much a nd causing drips.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEZjxyXynQXepxFgFKnEGuzCWyNNuWAVAcKwh-CotDsCezFxn1QaXO5xoxYNtTMNdw7V5jDO3qUKHZd8KSgnjZLl4Fj7D1_0WvVc2m1Mq5hRqzSxVCFkRZ1JPWgfQjuks02dG4-85jq-g0/s1600/BB-sprayed1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEZjxyXynQXepxFgFKnEGuzCWyNNuWAVAcKwh-CotDsCezFxn1QaXO5xoxYNtTMNdw7V5jDO3qUKHZd8KSgnjZLl4Fj7D1_0WvVc2m1Mq5hRqzSxVCFkRZ1JPWgfQjuks02dG4-85jq-g0/s1600/BB-sprayed1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYuL3iKt5mVkTRn5YWz-cJN_C-ZQLH-SRZXT32sA1RM2IAjRIjOrEfpx_prAtH2cOcBDda8Z0v9x_hYWyL4xnNvuPia6eendDpRn79TvPeQdwo0tmhC29yD7Kuyknd6asVfSzX38HNLDRJ/s1600/Headtube-sparyed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYuL3iKt5mVkTRn5YWz-cJN_C-ZQLH-SRZXT32sA1RM2IAjRIjOrEfpx_prAtH2cOcBDda8Z0v9x_hYWyL4xnNvuPia6eendDpRn79TvPeQdwo0tmhC29yD7Kuyknd6asVfSzX38HNLDRJ/s1600/Headtube-sparyed.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Luckily I got it right first time. Next stage is to get the head tube reamed and faced to fit the head set.</div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-52999669200840766572014-08-04T03:32:00.001-07:002014-08-04T03:32:45.659-07:00Metal work takes a step forward.Even though this is a wooden bicycle frame project, certain parts do need to be made from metal.<br />
The head tube fixing and bottom bracket are areas of huge stress so these need re enforcing within the wooden frame.<br />
I have worked with the same design I came up with on the first <a href="http://www.plycycle.co.uk/" target="_blank">PLYCYCLE</a>. It uses metal plate brazed onto or around the main component that is the sandwiched between the wooden layers with epoxy and then bolted for good measure.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Bare bottom bracket beside scale drawing of stress plate.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Once the parts were made up I asked my pal Lew Gardiner to braze them together. Which as before he did. This time his welds were not very tidy but strong none the less. This is a major step as I could now get onto fitting the bottom bracket into the frame.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5BTUri-fb833-aUuMTX75AoYsnV3L0cM8cHVIJtBXW048icUSlaDC7pKjIfVOpGuLkwqZO8fxpEv3BNaEvxClyV4SZX1ABM-nPiWSRRMkHDc99kPvOgn_XFfsj7dac94BE96kZnnlEvJh/s1600/Head-tube-and-bottom-bracket-with+strees-plate01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5BTUri-fb833-aUuMTX75AoYsnV3L0cM8cHVIJtBXW048icUSlaDC7pKjIfVOpGuLkwqZO8fxpEv3BNaEvxClyV4SZX1ABM-nPiWSRRMkHDc99kPvOgn_XFfsj7dac94BE96kZnnlEvJh/s1600/Head-tube-and-bottom-bracket-with+strees-plate01.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Head tube and bottom bracket with stress plates brazed on. Deep score marks added for gripping to epoxy.</span></div>
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The fitting was fairly straight forward. Just a case of routing out an equal cavity on either side of the frame for the plate to sit into, plus any additional excavation for bulges in the brazing.</div>
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Frame routed out to fit plate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidwoL2zZEyWVLZGpdgB8bmYWnFOO9C45MJ8Sw1GPw8elDZR5pjdmorSSSN9kHn3X2RLZ_hWNV0m6sibbQIt85zMUudr6T1XKJ9fi9LxUjaljinoHxMK6sgpLiO2Xj_DEGNBSj9E0WLD4DZ/s1600/Bottom-bracket-first-fit-02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidwoL2zZEyWVLZGpdgB8bmYWnFOO9C45MJ8Sw1GPw8elDZR5pjdmorSSSN9kHn3X2RLZ_hWNV0m6sibbQIt85zMUudr6T1XKJ9fi9LxUjaljinoHxMK6sgpLiO2Xj_DEGNBSj9E0WLD4DZ/s1600/Bottom-bracket-first-fit-02.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Plate fitting nicely.</div>
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I'm glad to say that the bottom bracket fits well, see below. Next I have to fit the head tube.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIzrQXVUzAypLQYcC30MD71yfXIba5XnOwt_aAGieAA8C3HGeW8d4X_PrxGFcAQ6ijDe3_CvhLCba9H9EGwsRw2oGhl5g7xlpZ5ki_OR47rFdsZNE1ndZ79fHHl-_FlZN96xlfqsGszyYa/s1600/Bottom-bracket-first-fit-01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIzrQXVUzAypLQYcC30MD71yfXIba5XnOwt_aAGieAA8C3HGeW8d4X_PrxGFcAQ6ijDe3_CvhLCba9H9EGwsRw2oGhl5g7xlpZ5ki_OR47rFdsZNE1ndZ79fHHl-_FlZN96xlfqsGszyYa/s1600/Bottom-bracket-first-fit-01.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Frame fitting over bottom bracket and plate. Side view.</div>
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Frame fitting over bottom bracket and plate. Front view.</div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-11307868837809446872014-06-02T05:57:00.000-07:002014-06-02T06:11:55.722-07:00Tacking the wheel hangers.While I wait for my old pal Lou to braze on the stress plates to the head tube and the bottom bracket I thought I should turn my attention to truing up the rear wheel.<br />
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This is the bit where I put all the rear stays onto the frame, fit the metal wheel hangers and their connection sleeves and see if all my guestimates have worked out. I am pleased to say that they were quite close. I did have to trim down and shave off some extra wood on the rear stays. But I would much prefer that than be short and have to start again.<br />
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So with the wheel fitted ( I intend using the wheels on my existing bike, an Alfine 8 speed ) I found that it all lined up. A true result and quite a relief!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The rear wheel fitting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">All lined up.</span></div>
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As it all fitted I thought I had better tack the pieces together with some deadly super epoxy. I did this last time and it worked well. It allows me to set the bit in the correct place and then the assembly can come apart and the metal pieces will stay in alignment ready for brazing. Then once brazed it should all go back together perfectly. The small amounts of resin will be burnt off in the brazing process.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Rear wheel hangers tacked together for brazing.</span></div>
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I had played with the idea of gluing these parts with a weld replacement resin. However without the time or experience to test this concept properly on what is a vital structural component I decided to leave it to another time.</div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-14436446245165709722014-04-22T05:58:00.000-07:002014-04-30T07:07:29.298-07:00The bottom bracket hole.<br />
I set up my little pillar drill and cut the hole that will eventually take the bottom bracket. Making these cuts are nerve wracking as there is no going back, mess this up and essentially I have to start over. Most of the things I have to do from now on are the same but it is all part of the fun. Luckily I have learnt to think it through and test as much as I can before actually going for it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6gWdPi1ldQyzVsyHeL1F1RvIBUfdsZvNE-3-TE-i3A5XZ9MKsKJ976yS6MutY6iAM41sdWt7bMBSyOahLbj1h7A0qmCqwn1R6lludnIGAfITC91_vFFcDA4OKQw3Gp4LaFU_wND_B6es/s1600/Drilling-bottombracket-03.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6gWdPi1ldQyzVsyHeL1F1RvIBUfdsZvNE-3-TE-i3A5XZ9MKsKJ976yS6MutY6iAM41sdWt7bMBSyOahLbj1h7A0qmCqwn1R6lludnIGAfITC91_vFFcDA4OKQw3Gp4LaFU_wND_B6es/s1600/Drilling-bottombracket-03.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYIQadLPIoL4AbBkkoJYn5bY2m-yO47ljiwO9dzVyquSXlmlWwvKn_VDA2naaIi9UKXzICuPcxzQ-6vHoomYPFkT62QFlbB8DpV5azLyTMcTdd7Kn7DLyXogyPTk4uw_NfPKsrzZ3ifY6/s1600/Drilling-bottombracket-02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYIQadLPIoL4AbBkkoJYn5bY2m-yO47ljiwO9dzVyquSXlmlWwvKn_VDA2naaIi9UKXzICuPcxzQ-6vHoomYPFkT62QFlbB8DpV5azLyTMcTdd7Kn7DLyXogyPTk4uw_NfPKsrzZ3ifY6/s1600/Drilling-bottombracket-02.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOGp0xD_97LgMi4WKyVuWFLkWZaj7eEmSfkodDm0N72xEymEA29-QDzEX6w__0lOVtSd4no3MRy9CHpJl1uZN8eLK62JlQ1AeW9dY1E6PgnOHZ-u9JM5cCmmXNEQfJw2z8C5EFZdc_2CTX/s1600/bottom-bracket-test1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOGp0xD_97LgMi4WKyVuWFLkWZaj7eEmSfkodDm0N72xEymEA29-QDzEX6w__0lOVtSd4no3MRy9CHpJl1uZN8eLK62JlQ1AeW9dY1E6PgnOHZ-u9JM5cCmmXNEQfJw2z8C5EFZdc_2CTX/s1600/bottom-bracket-test1.jpg" height="320" width="308" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyeIO67gK5VU6f3nJiZCdoeTW9ihIUzwTfg9t2t3ZbdiI-WHWB7GBdR7ia0hkodvRDuogEk3c4dnPkBfdHPyImhh2Ds3Qq3TR8WSpp39HBJE90SwCmyV68eLYTPhanrk8B4JFF-LsyuphQ/s1600/Drilling-bottombracket-05.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyeIO67gK5VU6f3nJiZCdoeTW9ihIUzwTfg9t2t3ZbdiI-WHWB7GBdR7ia0hkodvRDuogEk3c4dnPkBfdHPyImhh2Ds3Qq3TR8WSpp39HBJE90SwCmyV68eLYTPhanrk8B4JFF-LsyuphQ/s1600/Drilling-bottombracket-05.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/dZ8Rr0qjYd4?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Take a peek at this vid for a closer look.</span></div>
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Apart from the big bottom bracket hole, I started sanding away the excess resin that leaks out in the laminating process (there are some shots of it in the vid) and are generally just a pain. The dificulty is that over zealous sanding eats away at the intended shape of the frame, so again as above there is no going back from a mistake. it is good to to though because the frame starts to look better with every step now.<br />
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The next job is for me to prepare the metal parts for brazing, then the build can enter its final stage.</div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-43031332564578433422014-03-19T10:37:00.001-07:002014-03-19T10:37:46.937-07:00Gluing the frame part one.<br />
There was a window of warmer weather last weekend which allowed me to do the first epoxy resin work on the frame this year. I glued the left hand quarters of the frame together.... making a half. A small but significant step.<br />
I Mixed up the West System epoxy, 'wetted' up the two sides and then spread on the resin with microfibers for the main bond. All god so far. it was only when i cane to clamp it all together that i remembered that last time I had to borrow extra g-clamps. I had forgotten to do this so I had to improvise. I used what clamps I did have to hold the main sections and then to clamp the remaining areas I placed the frame on some wooden blocks and then used some heavy engineering bricks from my back garden to apply pressure. it wasn't quite enough so I put a tool box on top of the bricks.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJrnqdfFGcqMrxr0MdXarYYCqQzetNmTPfB2hRq44tAzAuq7xph1FFWJEOaQiAQWfzGOXTy7hJ1g2qsZ2rTdQIm41NGjtNlT4lzMIb0ZJyG8oqvEuHXWGg30P2DDh-5DuVZDOFddD12qaB/s1600/frame-gluing04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJrnqdfFGcqMrxr0MdXarYYCqQzetNmTPfB2hRq44tAzAuq7xph1FFWJEOaQiAQWfzGOXTy7hJ1g2qsZ2rTdQIm41NGjtNlT4lzMIb0ZJyG8oqvEuHXWGg30P2DDh-5DuVZDOFddD12qaB/s1600/frame-gluing04.jpg" height="231" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Make shift clamping in action.</span></div>
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I am pleased to say that it worked. The bond is good. however I will be borrowing more clamps as it really is much easier that way.</div>
ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-73113324275734799672014-03-10T06:10:00.001-07:002014-03-10T06:12:10.653-07:00Laying out the pieces.I had a good stint on the build this weekend, and the main aim was to lay out the main pieces and see how it all looked. This was the first time all the main bits have come together and actually resemble a bicycle. Finally! It was a mile stone.<br />
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After I got over the fact that it looks like a bike, I started to take a more critical look at how it was actually shaping up. As it turned out there was a much larger gap between the rear wheel and the frame than i had anticipated. I think this was because when I first set the geometry I was going to use track style drop outs as I had on the <a href="http://www.plycycle.co.uk/" target="_blank">Plycycle Mk1</a>. But I changed to vertical drop outs, and although the geometry lines are the same, the place in which the wheel sits is set, and it is quite far back. I hadn't appreciated how much difference this would make. Not to worry though, it is a wooden frame and it is simple to shorten the stays, but this changes the angles of the rear triangle. I couldn't change the bottom stay fixing as it is surrounded by the main frame, however the top stay junction is fairly simple. So I set about the fix and an hour later it was done. See the before and after pics below.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Before fix. Large wheel gap.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">After fix. Wheel closer in.</span></div>
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I also notice now that the angle that I had placed the forks on is not great. They are just placed on, but along the pencil line I had thought would be best. I think that the problem is the opposite to the rear wheel. I think that the front wheel needs to come forward, away from the frame a tad. I will have to look at that properly when I have the head tube made and ready to fit.</div>
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Putting a temp wheel in made me realize that it will be much more critical getting the rear drop outs in the correct place now that i am using vertical rather than track style. With track style there is a bit of wiggle room when bolting the wheel in as you can slide the wheel left and right a tiny bit to get a good alignment. However with the vertical drop outs the wheel is set, one position only. I think I will need to make a jig fot the final gluing.</div>
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9037533326158181697.post-25964816540023368002014-03-06T01:33:00.002-08:002014-03-06T01:33:50.678-08:00Rear stay rough assembly.<br />
Over the winter I have managed to get some time to tinkering done on various bits and pieces on the frame. Mostly it was tidying up details and making joins more accurate.<br />
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Rear drop outs rough assembly.</div>
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The biggest step forward has been the shaping and fitting of the metal work to connect the rear stays to the drop outs.<br />
I am doing it loosely at the moment to get the fitting. I will then spot bond the metal work in place with an epoxy ready for braising. I have to be sure of the fit as I don't really want to have to remake the metal parts, so it is has to work first time. This system worked well on the <a href="http://www.buildingawoodenbike.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">Plycycle Mk1</a> so I think it should be fine this time too.<br />
Incidentally I bought the drop out ready made and raw tubing from <a href="http://www.framebuilding.com/index.htm" target="_blank">Ceeway</a>.<br />
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ernybernyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06854506992831082224noreply@blogger.com